DOWNTOWN. A gorgeous former bank lobby rife with architectural character, soaring ceilings, and sensual fabrics gives initial indication of the refined feast that BANK has in store for guests. The menu scoops into its delicious sensibility a variety of influences from the American South and gives them new culinary life, courtesy of executive chef Michael Kramer. Keep an eye out for coffee-rubbed filet of beef, butter-poached Maine lobster, brioche-stuffed quail, and Alaskan halibut with truffle emulsion. An expensive but dazzling experience.

WEST HOUSTON. Golden-hued pine tables, booths, and wine racks impart a rustic warmth to this engaging bistro, which confidently creates comfort-food dishes in the best French tradition. "Le Cep" is the trunk of a grapevine, the most basic, deep-rooted part of the plant, and it's a worthy metaphor for the restaurant's cuisine. Taste the kitchen's skills in pan-roasted boar medallions, slow-braised short ribs, bouillabaisse, coq au vin, and roasted rabbit in mustard sauce. Ideal for a romantic dinner for two or a lazy lunch.

GALLERIA. Beautifully appointed in rich, polished woods and distinguished by sleek lines and the contrast of light and dark tones, Bistro Moderne is as classy as its name indicates. Its cuisine ­ modern French with Texas touches ­ is similarly upscale. Whet your palate with ostrich carpaccio or smoked duck tarte tatin before sampling braised rabbit, roasted monkfish, hanger steak dressed with Bordelaise sauce, or pistachio-crusted venison medallions. They'll lead perfectly towards desserts as dramatic as a chocolate-hazelnut bombe with orange caramel sauce or as simple as classic profiteroles.

HUMBLE. "Humble" may be its location, but this elegant French eatery is anything but. Housed in what was once a Pentecostal church, Chez Nous offers authentic French countryside dining in the heart of Texas. Charming decor, first-class service, and a wine list that boasts fine French vintages further the superb dining experience. House specialties include escargot in garlic butter sauce, mesquite-grilled veal chop, tournedos Rossini, shrimp Provençal, and roast rack of young lamb. Well worth the drive to suburban Houston.

MONTROSE. This intimate inn was a private mansion until 1979, and its romantic dining room is marked by a cozy library/sitting area and a walnut-paneled bar. The inspired French menu, subject of rave reviews by local and national publications, features fresh regional ingredients. Representative entrees include Texas quail stuffed with wild rice, roasted Muscovy duck, and roasted rack of Colorado lamb with provincial herbs. Be sure to save room for dessert ­ palette de chocolat and a marquise laced with Grand Marnier are delights not to be missed.